Twin issue XVII: Wham Bam Andersen
Photography Clare Shilland, Words India Doyle
Introducing new shirt brand Bruta: the label washing romance into the most ubiquitous form of clothing. Founded by Arthur Yates in 2015, Bruta marries art and design in the form of loose-fitting shirts that feature hand-drawn detail and embroidery. Alongside the shirts, Yates has employed his artistic background to create pots and urns, an unexpected yet fitting compliment to the clothing. As part of our ‘Behind The Seams’ series, we delve into Bruta’s Spring Summer 2017 collection.
How did Bruta come about?
I used to have a business that supplied high street stores with fast fashion and at the same time I was putting on art shows around London. I decided to bring those two worlds together and build a brand that I was proud of and that was in line with the art I was showing. The name Bruta means different things in different Romantic languages – crazy, stupid, ugly. I also like the design of the word, phonetically it’s a exciting name.
What is it about shirts that you were drawn to?
I have a big collection of shirts and it is what I have always worn. Shirts are a classic staple in both men’s and women’s wardrobes. It seemed like a good place to start! The shirt is a relaxed, slouchy, and loose fitting. I wanted the shirts to be casual and easy to wear everyday.
You had no formal fashion training, how has your experience been of moving into the industry?
Designing and creating the collection isn’t that different from painting. However there is a whole logistical side which I have had to learn quickly. Designing a collection is only the tip of the iceberg – there is so much behind the scenes that you need to master if you want to survive!
You make shirts and pots, what unites the two surfaces?
The pots are more liberated as they are all one-off and hand painted where with the shirts you have to take in to account manufacturing, costs etc. When designing the shirts I need to be more pragmatic.
In general what are you influenced by? And how do you translate this into your designs?
Your latest collections were based around a trip to Italy – where did you visit and what were you inspired by?
I have been to nearly everywhere it Italy – whenever we have a moment free my girlfriend and I will rent a car and drive through a different area of Italy. It is such a beautiful, dramatic country. The collection is inspired by everything Italian fromThe Medici family to spaghetti pomodoro.
Where would you like to take Bruta over the rest of 2016, and beyond?
We want to build the collection into other categories other than shirts, but we don’t want to limit ourselves to just clothing. We want to develop more homewares and Bruta artefacts as well.
First published on The Culture Trip, 24 August 2016
Pieter brought Miami to London for SS17.
Sebastiaan Pieter took implicit and explicit ideas of sexuality and worked them into the heart of his collection. The designer created a casual series, in which models wore jersey and gauze tops, shorts and long vests slit up the side with black leather sliders. T-shirts were splashed with phrases such as ‘Chill Out’, ‘Come Down’ and ‘Fun Now’, adding to the sense of play. The summer-lounge look was given a provocative edge thanks to metallic silver speedos worn high above low slung shorts , backless linen tops and split seams on sleeves, all of which allowed skin to show through. Meanwhile hooded jackets in pink, semi-transparent parachuting nylon left little to the imagination.
Taking inspiration from the sun drenched beaches of Miami, Pieter worked across a palette of greens, pinks and purples as well as navy, black and grey. Central to the collection was the recurring metallics that ran across jersey tops, shorts and speedos. Elsewhere boxy cropped tops were adorned with metallic embroidery of sweet wrappers and pills, evoking a sense of debauched disco on long summer nights.
Jewellery played a strong role in this collection. Silver chains with same slogans worn short along the neck and ornate hoop earrings added a fierce edge to the otherwise simple silhouettes. In a broader sense, it was details that brought the collection together. These features and other emblems such as the candy wrapper embroidery were indicative of the influence that conceptual Cuban artist Felix Gonzales-Torres (who was famed for his minimal installations that used objects such as lightbulbs and wrapped sweets to reflect on his experience of AIDS) had on the PIETER SS17 collection.
Photographer: Thang LV
There’s nothing like a fashionable festive season to add some extra sparkle to wintry nights. Those looking for a sophisticated alternative to the Beyond Retro Christmas jumpers and Winter Wonderland mania can take some twinkling comfort in the Christmas Tree at Claridges, this year designed by Burberry’s chief executive officer and creative leader, Christopher Bailey.
Bailey follows in the footsteps of Domenico Dolce and Sefano Gabbana, who have decorated the tree for the previous two years, alongside John Galliano and Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz. Given that everything he touches turns to gold, it’s no surprise that the anticipation for the new venture is running high, with Bailey’s tree expected to bring spectacular Christmas magic to the Mayfair hotel.
Burberry’s Christmas tree will explore the relationship between light and dark, with over 100 umbrellas adorning the tree, (always helpful in an English winter) finished in eye-catching gold and silver metallic fabric.
Of the new Christmas partnership, Bailey said: “We wanted the tree to reflect the playfulness of the season with a little bit of the English weather thrown in. We also love the idea that the tree comes to life as guests pass, bringing a wonderful touch of festival magic to their stay.”
This decorative collaboration follows on from Burberry’s long standing relationship with Claridge’s. Currently guests will find the iconic Burberry trench coats in their rooms – a stylish upgrade from the usual array of minibar snacks. Come Christmas, the fashion house will also be providing Burberry-clad bell boys to help guests with their Christmas shopping lists.
A must see for any London fashionista worth their Louboutins, the Claridge’s Christmas tree will light up the festive season.
28 Nov 2015 – 29 Nov 2015, 9:00 AM – 8:00 PM
Hallucinogenic colour and slinky silhouettes can only mean one thing: fabulous designer Roksanda is in town. Snap up some piping hot wares at this insider sample sale.
British designer of the moment, Roksanda has been creating a storm with her bold designs that nudged even the most fervent minimalists onto the colour spectrum. The Serbian born student of sculpture and design has been worn by the likes of Cate Blanchett and Keira Knightley.
In this London sample sale expect to find eye-catching colours played with and peppered across clothes in unexpected ways: a pastel blue near the knees on sky blue skirts, blood red/deep blue panels peering out from underneath dramatic folds. Sculptural shapes show that though she has changed her medium, Roksanda’s original training plays a very present part in her aesthetic execution.
From the spring/summer 2015 collection look out for wonderfully dramatic black dresses that cut sharply down the middle of the body revealing pink lining, red and blue block colours underneath that jar just right.
If you can’t wait, head over to the Roksanda Mount Street store and nab a statement fur piece from the AW15 collection, you’ll treasure it forever. The website is yet to launch, but you can sign up to the Roksanda newsletter to stay informed.
Like it or loathe it, the Yeezy Season 1 collection has everyone talking. This must be the hottest fashion co/lab to come to London, rivalled only by H&M x Balmain.
This October you can buy the full Kanye West for Adidas collection at Harvey Nichols. It’s what we’ve all been waiting for. Why? Kanye West went from maverick to visionary when he showed his dystopian chic collection at fashion week. This new collection marks the fruit of eighteen months of labour and we’re excited to se the transformation of menswear style in the city now its finally available for general purchase.
What to expect from Yeezy Season 1?
Unlike the slick, suited styles of late, Kanye West’s designs embrace a loose, military inspired aesthetic; a new uniform for those that lead a versatile and unpredictable life. On the 4th floor of Harvey Nichols you’ll be able to buy everything from Yeezy t-shirts, sweatpants and sweaters to heavy duty outerwear and most excitingly for sneakerphiles, the Yeezy Boost 350 sneaker.
“We are really excited to be one of a limited selection of retailers stocking the entire YEEZY SEASON 1 collection,” said Head of Menswear at Harvey Nichols, Darren Skey. “The collection defines a style that matches the relentless pace of our contemporary lives. The silhouettes, fabrications and colour palette make this a highly desirable collection and we anticipate that this is something our customers will identify with and buy into.”
The new collection is perfectly timed for Christmas: make sure to nab a piece of the collection before its gone.
Founder and Artistic Director of the Yard Theatre Jay Miller directs a new play by Pamela Carter about four young soldiers waiting to become heroes. Rather than exploring the drama of the battlefield, this topical new play focusses on barracks life in peacetime. 2015 is the first time in over 100 years that the British Army is not at war. But what happens to the soldiers when there’s no battle to fight?
This is a captivating ensemble piece, driven by the physical rhythms of life in the barracks – be if the consumption of lucozade, using the phone or working out. Similarly the dialogue is woven tight, with everyday banter spiked with dark humour and menacing undertones.
In the second act, the tension, anxiety and paradoxical sense of longing for war that exists during peace time is artfully unpacked. Lines is reminiscent of the film Jarhead: the waiting, that state of preparedness, is almost as tortuous as the experience of war itself.
Each member of the youthful cast (Ncuti Gatwa as Valentine, Tom Gill as Perk, Tony Clay as Locke and Robbie O’Neill as Mackay) give powerful and captivating performances. In particular Robbie O’Neill’s cheeky, confident Mackay shows natural leadership as he delivers soulful monologues and witty asides.
A simple but well used set, coupled with video footage of the soldiers on the battlefield overhead emphasises this purgatory-like existence.
There is also the ghost of Ibsen lurking here, with much, almost all, of the action happening off-stage. In the final act, what is revealed to be a crashing anti-climax shows Pamela Carter at her peak, deftly depicting the fantasy, mythology and propaganda that solders itself to the heroic dream. Carter has drawn believable characters here, with each soldier-in-training carrying their personal history into this new environment. The way in which these histories unfold into the drama weaves human threads around the fragile nexus of war.
Powerful and provocative, this is a real gem.
A boundary-breaking fringe theatre, The Yard is well worth a visit, even if you’re not an East Londoner. The sellout success of recent plays The Mikvah Project and Beyond Caring (which transferred to the National Theatre to another round of rave reviews), has built quite the buzz for the new Autumn Season at the Yard. Book fast: Lines is set to be another sellout.